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This "trendy" New American "East Coast transplant" and "sophisticated watering hole" in River North's "old Spago space" is a "New York"style" "scene" where "the focus is on unique seafood preparations" (special mention for the "sushi and raw oyster bars"); "cool drinks", an "amazing Sunday brunch" and a "nice jazz bar upstairs" also win praise from the "hip yet diverse crowd", though sticklers would still "throw this one back" for a "contrived" concept, "disjointed" service and "expense-account prices."
When this Manhattan seafooder dropped anchor in Chicago last spring, it seemed to be treading water, but under the new executive chef, Mark Chmielewski, the kitchen has found its sea legs. Mahi-mahi with sweet potato puree and caramelized root vegetables justifies its inclusion in the "simply grilled fish" section of the menu; seared sea scallops get a beefy boost with red-wine-braised oxtail and wonderful lemon gnocchi. Oddly, the sushi bar has also improved, although it's the same sushi chef, Hiroshi Takaishi. Now I look forward to delights like big eye tuna sashimi prettily arranged with apply slices, mint, ginger, and green tea salt. A lovely 2004 Loire Fouassier 'Clos Paradis' Sancerre ($48) also makes for smooth sailing. Event desserts taste better thanks to sweets such as the pear crostata with lemongrass-basil ice cream.
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